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Cutting Curls

Monday, 14 June 2010 by Vincent

Every couple of years I get THE question, right out of the blue….”Why do you cut curly hair wet?” Or “What’s the difference between cutting curly hair wet or dry?”  Are they asking because they’re interested in what makes curly hair look good or are they questioning our expertise? As the clients have entered into the inner sanctum of beautiful hair at Ouidad….I assume that they really want to know why is it so hard to figure out curly hair?

I explain that hair stylists are not trained for curls because hair fashion has little to do with natural hair texture unless it’s used as a passing look. And curly hair has to be handled on its own terms including the cut that works for curls.

When you really look at a curl, it’s a miracle of individual hairs gathering together in a pattern forming the Curl. Disrupting the pattern, breaking up the curl shape is what a “bad cut” gives you. The successful curl-cut follows the form and shape of the curl, recognizing its character by sight and feel.

Years ago eager to establish a successful reputation as a master cutter, I finally had to face the feared head of curly hair. With no guide, I experimented and practiced, choosing dry hair as my medium. I discovered the best I could do was clipping off the problems and avoiding what I couldn’t control. I was trimming hedges.  Ha! Cutting dry left the curls incomplete. I could manage some of the problems but the look and style was non-existent.  Dead end [appropriate pun.]

I knew the solution was within the curl…following its design and understanding its character. I watched Ouidad demonstrate her “carving and slicing,” I watched the curls flow and spring together, and for the first time I realized the inner workings and harmony of curls….years ago and on my own, I just couldn’t get it.

When properly conditioned wet hair can be analyzed by sight and touch, it’s amazing to see scissors carve into the curl, slice out the weight, giving it body and style. This is a skill brought by education and experience….wet hair reveals the curls and glides the shears within and through curls completing its own beautiful structure. It takes patience and love.  Sounds nice right?  Well it works like a dream!

Vincent, Stylist, 57th Street Salon, NYC

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Categories: 57th Street, New York City Salon, Cut: Carve & Slice, Expert Tips, Ouidad How Tos, Ouidad Stylists
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2 Comments for “Cutting Curls”

  1. 1Stephanie

    wrote on 20 November 2011 at 12:11

    Hello! and I have a very important question to ask you. I need some guidaNCE AND REASSURANCE TO MY HAIR EMERGENCY! i RECENTLY MADE A HUGE UN EXPLAINABLE mistake and I do not know how or why manipulated me to ever think that this was ever o.k. because it has been thee worst disaster to ever happen or touch my precious curls! Recently had a very bad dry haircut by a 15 yr. old girl who convinced me somehow that this was ok! For the record I am in my late twenties.
    I normally have a little past the shoulder length hair (classic curly hair type) all one length. Now its literally 4 inch ugly as sin big bangs she cut straight across dry and brushing with a fine tooth comb. Pulled and shredded down the sides cut to where it lays big and poofy and the back is like a rats tail that was the only part left unharmed and some of the ends were saved not much. Any advice on what I can do to fix this mess! should I see a salon or let it be. Regardless I am going to have to be patient for 6 mo. to a year for it to grow back which really greatly upsets me! Please let me know of any suggestions and/or recommendations you have for me and my curls! Thanks a lot Stephanie

  2. 2Ouidad-The Curl Experts

    wrote on 22 November 2011 at 16:13

    Thank you for writing in, we are truly sorry to hear about your awful hair cut experience! Ultimately we would advise consulting with a professional hair stylist. The stylist can best guide in determining what would be your next step in evening out the cut, enabling you to let your curls grow out evenly. We highly advise using Ouidad’s 12 minute Deep Treatment as it is key to beautiful healthy curls! By using Ouidad’s 12 minute Deep Treatment it will help encourage hair growth by penetrating through the hair cuticle to nourish the internal structure of your curls helping you restore bounce and controlling frizz. We recommend using the 12 minute Deep Treatment, 1-2 times per month depending on the health of your curls. If your curls are a little dryer you can use it 2-3 times per month. With Ouidad’s 12 Minute Deep Treatment and a good Ouidad Carve and Slice your curls will be back to life in no time! Ouidad wishes you the best of luck within the process of growing out your curls. If you have any further questions please free to contact us. Thank you and have a great day.

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